As autumn leaves begin their final descent and temperatures start their inevitable slide toward freezing, thousands of homeowners face a critical question: what happens to my rain barrel when winter arrives? The difference between a water collection system that serves you for decades and one that becomes a cracked, useless husk often comes down to those crucial weeks before the first hard freeze. Winterizing your rain barrel isn’t just about protecting a plastic container—it’s about safeguarding your investment in sustainable water management and ensuring your system emerges from hibernation ready for spring showers.
While many guides offer superficial advice like “just drain it,” true system preservation requires understanding the specific vulnerabilities of your setup, your local climate patterns, and the long-term implications of each winterization approach. Whether you’re managing a single 50-gallon barrel or an interconnected 500-gallon harvesting network, the strategies you employ now will determine your system’s longevity and performance for years to come.
Why Winterizing Your Rain Barrel is Non-Negotiable
Water expands by approximately 9% when it freezes, generating a force of over 25,000 PSI—enough to split concrete, rupture metal pipes, and turn even the sturdiest polyethylene barrel into a spiderweb of cracks. This isn’t a theoretical risk; it’s a mathematical certainty if liquid water remains in your system when temperatures drop below 32°F. The consequences extend beyond a destroyed barrel: ice dams can form in connecting hoses, spigots can crack and leak in spring, and frozen water can back up into your home’s gutter system, causing roof and fascia damage that makes barrel replacement costs look trivial.
The Freeze-Thaw Cycle: Your Barrel’s Worst Enemy
The real destruction doesn’t always happen during the first freeze. It’s the cyclical nature of winter—freeze, thaw, refreeze—that exploits microscopic weaknesses in your barrel’s material. Each cycle stresses the molecular structure of plastic, widens existing fissures, and compromises fittings. In wooden barrels, this cycle causes staves to separate and hoops to loosen. Metal components face a different threat: water that seeps into threads and crevices expands during freezing, creating corrosion pockets that weaken structural integrity. Understanding this cycle helps explain why simply “hoping for a mild winter” is a strategy doomed to failure.
Climate Considerations: It’s Not Just for Cold Climates
Many homeowners in USDA zones 7-9 mistakenly believe winterization is unnecessary. However, a single unexpected cold snap can cause catastrophic damage. Even in relatively mild climates, overnight temperatures can dip below freezing while daytime highs remain comfortable. These diurnal fluctuations are particularly dangerous because they create repeated freeze-thaw cycles. Coastal regions face additional challenges from salt air accelerating corrosion on metal components, while arid climates experience more dramatic temperature swings due to low humidity. Your winterization strategy must account not just for your average winter low, but for your specific microclimate’s temperature volatility.
Method 1: The Complete Drain and Store Approach
This traditional method remains the gold standard for complete protection, particularly for systems in climates where temperatures regularly drop below 20°F for extended periods. The principle is simple: eliminate all water, disconnect all components, and store your barrel in a protected environment. While labor-intensive, this approach offers 100% protection against freeze damage when executed properly.
Best Candidates for This Method
Complete drainage and storage works best for smaller systems (under 100 gallons) that are easily accessible and portable. If your barrel sits on a simple stand without permanent plumbing connections, this method is likely your most cost-effective option. It’s also ideal for decorative barrels, wooden casks, and any system with components that cannot be reliably insulated. Consider this approach if your barrel is positioned in an exposed location with no natural windbreak or if you plan to redesign your system in spring anyway.
Step-by-Step Drainage Process
Begin by disconnecting the downspout diverter and allowing the barrel to drain completely through the spigot—this alone removes only about 80% of the water. Next, tip the barrel on its side and remove the overflow fitting to release trapped water in the upper portion. For complete evacuation, remove the spigot entirely and use a wet/dry vacuum to extract water from the threaded insert. Don’t forget the lid’s water seal channel, which can hold several cups of water. Finally, invert the barrel and prop it at a slight angle to ensure absolutely no water remains in any crevice.
Storage Location Strategies
Your garage or basement might seem ideal, but consider humidity and temperature fluctuations. An unheated but attached garage maintains more stable temperatures than a detached shed, which experiences wider swings. If indoor storage isn’t possible, position your barrel on its side under a deck or against the north side of your home (where temperature swings are less dramatic than the sun-exposed south side). Elevate it on pallets to prevent ground moisture absorption and cover it with a breathable tarp—not plastic, which traps condensation. The key is avoiding both freezing temperatures and moisture accumulation.
Inspecting for Damage Before Storage
This mandatory downtime presents a perfect opportunity for system assessment. Examine the barrel’s interior for algae buildup, which indicates light infiltration and potential lid seal failure. Check all O-rings and gaskets for cracking or flattening—these inexpensive components often cause major leaks when spring arrives. Inspect threaded fittings for calcium deposits that suggest slow leaks. Document any issues with photos and order replacement parts during winter when demand (and prices) are lower. This proactive approach transforms storage time into maintenance time.
Method 2: The In-Place Insulation Technique
For homeowners who rely on their rain barrels year-round for livestock water, greenhouse irrigation, or emergency supplies, removing the system isn’t practical. In-place insulation allows you to maintain functionality while protecting against freeze damage. This method requires careful material selection and precise installation to be effective.
Understanding R-Value for Outdoor Applications
R-value measures thermal resistance, but outdoor installations face challenges that lab tests don’t capture. Wind washing—the movement of air through insulation—can reduce effective R-value by 50% or more. Moisture infiltration further degrades performance. For rain barrel protection in zone 6 climates, aim for an effective R-value of R-15 to R-20. This typically means using R-21 fiberglass batts (which degrade to R-15 when compressed and exposed to moisture) or R-15 rigid foam board with proper air sealing. The key is continuous insulation without gaps, as even a 1-inch gap can reduce overall effectiveness by 30%.
DIY Insulation vs. Professional Solutions
DIY insulation using fiberglass batts wrapped in plastic sheeting costs approximately $40-60 per barrel but requires meticulous sealing. Gaps at the spigot and overflow openings become cold bridges that funnel freezing air directly to vulnerable components. Professional insulated barrel jackets, often made from closed-cell foam with custom-cut openings, run $150-250 but provide consistent coverage and include thermal breaks at penetration points. For systems with multiple barrels or complex plumbing, professional solutions often prove more economical when you factor in your time and the risk of inadequate coverage.
Critical Components to Insulate
The barrel itself is actually the easiest component to protect. Your real vulnerabilities lie in the spigot (which extends beyond the insulation envelope), the overflow pipe (which creates a direct cold path into the barrel), and any connecting hoses. Use heat tape specifically designed for outdoor water applications on spigots and pipes, then insulate over the tape. For the overflow, install a removable plug during winter and insulate the opening. Remember that metal fittings conduct cold 250 times more effectively than plastic, making them priority targets for insulation efforts.
Method 3: The Active Heating System
In regions where winter temperatures occasionally dip below freezing but don’t stay there for weeks, active heating can maintain liquid water without the hassle of complete drainage. This approach uses thermostatically controlled heating elements to keep water above freezing, typically targeting 35-40°F to provide a safety margin.
When Heating Makes Sense
Active heating becomes economically viable for systems over 200 gallons where the water value exceeds electricity costs, or for systems supplying critical needs like livestock or greenhouse operations. It’s also practical for areas with only occasional freezes, where running a heater for a few nights costs less than the labor of draining and refilling. Calculate your break-even point: if your system holds 300 gallons ($45 worth of water at municipal rates) and heating costs $0.50 per night, 90 nights of heating equals the water’s value. In most climates, you’ll face fewer than 30 hard-freeze nights per winter.
Types of Heating Elements
Submersible aquarium heaters rated for outdoor use provide the most efficient heat transfer, directly warming the water mass. Look for units with titanium casings and automatic shutoff if exposed to air. For barrel walls, silicone heating pads designed for livestock water tanks offer even heat distribution without hot spots. Avoid heat tape inside the barrel—it’s designed for pipes, not immersion, and can create dangerous temperature gradients. All heating elements should connect to a GFCI-protected circuit and include a thermostat set to 35°F, not higher, to prevent unnecessary energy consumption.
Energy Consumption and Safety Considerations
A 300-watt heater running 8 hours per night for 30 nights consumes 72 kWh, costing roughly $9-15 depending on your electricity rates. However, this assumes perfect insulation. Poorly insulated barrels can require continuous heating, multiplying costs tenfold. Always use a dedicated outdoor-rated GFCI outlet, and never run extension cords through snow or standing water. Install a high-water alarm that alerts you if the barrel overflows due to ice blockage in the overflow pipe. The combination of water and electricity demands respect—cut corners here, and you’re not just risking your barrel.
Method 4: The Underground Burial Strategy
For the serious water harvester, burying part or all of your collection system below the frost line offers permanent freeze protection while maintaining year-round functionality. This capital-intensive approach transforms your rain barrel into a true cistern, providing benefits far beyond winter survival.
Site Assessment and Preparation
Before digging, contact your utility locating service—hitting a gas line while installing a freeze-protection system defeats the purpose. Assess soil drainage; clay soils hold water and can create a freezing mass around your barrel, while sandy soils drain quickly but may not provide stable support. The ideal location is a south-facing slope with natural drainage, away from tree roots that could compromise the installation over time. Consider accessibility for cleaning and maintenance; burying your barrel is a 20-year decision, not a seasonal one.
Frost Line Fundamentals
The frost line—how deeply the ground freezes in winter—varies dramatically by region. In southern Florida, it’s essentially zero. In northern Minnesota, it exceeds 60 inches. Your local building department can provide the exact depth for your county. For reliable freeze protection, the top of your buried barrel should sit 12 inches below this line. This means a typical 55-gallon barrel requires a hole at least 48 inches deep in zone 5 climates. The excavation cost often exceeds the barrel’s value, making this method practical only for larger systems or new construction where excavation equipment is already on-site.
Access and Maintenance Considerations
Underground systems require a secure, insulated access hatch for cleaning and inspection. Design your system with a manhole-style opening at least 24 inches in diameter, equipped with a gasketed lid and insulation plug. Install a sump pump in the access well to handle groundwater infiltration. Plan for pump removal—your barrel will need cleaning every 2-3 years to remove sediment and prevent anaerobic conditions. While buried systems are protected from freezing, they’re not maintenance-free; in fact, they require more planning to service components you can’t easily see or reach.
Method 5: The Partial Winterization with Bypass System
This hybrid approach maintains your gutter system’s functionality while protecting your collection components. A bypass diverter routes water away from the barrel during winter months, allowing you to leave the barrel in place, partially filled with a non-toxic antifreeze solution for ballast and minimal functionality.
How Bypass Systems Work
Install a three-way diverter in your downspout that can send water either to the barrel or directly to your drainage system. During winter, switch the diverter to bypass mode. The barrel remains connected but receives no new water, allowing you to control its contents precisely. This is particularly valuable for systems connected to irrigation networks, as you can maintain minimal water for system priming without risking overflow or freeze damage. The key is a diverter with positive positioning—one that won’t accidentally shift during high winds or ice buildup.
Maintaining Minimal Functionality
For emergency preparedness or livestock needs, fill your barrel to 25% capacity with water and add food-grade propylene glycol at a 1:10 ratio. This creates a solution that won’t freeze until temperatures drop below 15°F, protecting the barrel while providing usable (though not potable) water. Install a circulation pump to prevent stratification, where the warmer solution stays at the bottom while the top layer freezes. Monitor specific gravity with a simple antifreeze tester to ensure concentration remains adequate throughout winter. This approach uses 75% less water than full capacity while maintaining system viability.
Spring Reactivation Protocol
Reactivating a bypassed system requires more than just flipping a switch. Begin by testing the bypassed barrel’s contents for freeze damage—ice crystals can form even in antifreeze solutions if concentrations were inadequate. Drain and flush the system completely before reconnecting the downspout. Inspect all seals and gaskets, which may have dried out during winter disuse. Run a test cycle with clean water, checking for leaks at every connection. Only after confirming system integrity should you return to full collection mode. This methodical approach prevents spring floods inside your home from failed fittings you didn’t check.
Pre-Winterization System Audit
Before implementing any winterization method, conduct a comprehensive system audit. This isn’t a five-minute glance; it’s a systematic evaluation that identifies vulnerabilities you might otherwise overlook. Start at the roof and work your way down to the barrel’s base, documenting everything with photos and notes.
Gutter and Downspout Assessment
Your rain barrel is only as reliable as its supply chain. Clean gutters thoroughly—decomposing leaves create acidic compounds that accelerate barrel degradation. Check downspouts for proper pitch; water standing in horizontal sections will freeze and block flow, potentially backing up into your roof system. Install heating cables in gutters if ice dams are common, as these can redirect meltwater in ways that overwhelm your barrel’s overflow capacity. Secure all downspout straps, as freeze-thaw cycles loosen fasteners over time.
First Flush Diverter Maintenance
First flush diverters, which discard the initial roof runoff containing the most contaminants, require special attention. The diverter chamber must be completely drained—trapped water here can crack the housing and contaminate your barrel in spring. Remove and clean the filter screen, which likely collected pollen, seeds, and debris during fall. Check the auto-reset mechanism; many models use a float that can freeze in position. Consider removing the diverter entirely for winter and capping the opening, reinstalling it in spring when roof contaminants are less of a concern.
Filter and Screen Cleaning
Mesh screens on barrel inlets and overflows trap debris but also create hundreds of tiny water pockets that freeze independently. Remove all screens and soak them in a vinegar solution to dissolve mineral deposits, then dry completely before storage. Inspect the screen frames for cracks—plastic becomes brittle with UV exposure and winter cold exacerbates this weakness. Replace any screen with damaged mesh or frame; a $5 screen replacement prevents a $100 barrel replacement when ice formation tears the mesh and allows debris to clog your spigot.
Choosing the Right Method for Your Situation
No single winterization method suits every system. Your decision matrix should weigh climate severity, system size, usage requirements, budget constraints, and your personal risk tolerance. A homeowner in Portland, Oregon, faces different challenges than one in Portland, Maine, even though both experience freezing temperatures.
Barrel Material Matters: Plastic vs. Wood vs. Metal
High-density polyethylene (HDPE) barrels, the most common type, become brittle below 20°F and can crack from minor impacts. They tolerate some ice expansion but will split if more than 30% full when frozen. Wooden barrels, while aesthetically pleasing, require constant moisture to maintain seal integrity; drying out in winter causes staves to shrink and leak in spring. Metal barrels resist cracking but conduct cold efficiently, freezing water faster than other materials and suffering from expansion pressure at seams. Metal also corrodes when condensation forms between the barrel and insulation. Your material dictates your method: plastic benefits most from complete drainage, wood requires moisture maintenance, and metal demands exceptional insulation.
System Capacity and Configuration
A single 55-gallon barrel on a simple stand offers different options than a 500-gallon system with buried plumbing and multiple distribution points. Large systems often justify the expense of active heating or underground installation because their replacement cost is substantial. Interconnected systems face additional vulnerabilities: ice formation in one barrel can create pressure differentials that stress connecting hoses and valves. For multi-barrel arrays, consider isolating individual units with ball valves, allowing you to winterize each one independently while maintaining partial system functionality.
Budget and Time Investment Analysis
Complete drainage costs nothing but 2-3 hours of labor. Professional insulation runs $150-250 per barrel but lasts 5-7 years. Active heating adds $15-30 to your winter electric bill but saves 4-5 hours of seasonal labor. Underground installation costs $500-1,500 but provides permanent, maintenance-free protection. Calculate your true costs: include your time at $25/hour, factor in the barrel’s replacement value, and consider the risk cost of system failure. For a $100 barrel, spending $250 on professional insulation doesn’t make financial sense. For a $1,200 integrated system, it’s cheap insurance.
Common Mistakes That Destroy Rain Barrels in Winter
Even well-intentioned winterization efforts fail due to predictable errors. Learning from others’ mistakes saves you from repeating them. These aren’t rare oversights; they’re the most common reasons repair shops see a flood of broken barrels each spring.
The “Just Leave It” Fallacy
“I’ll just leave it full and hope for the best” is the rain barrel equivalent of driving without insurance. Yes, some barrels survive mild winters intact. Many more develop microcracks that don’t leak immediately but fail catastrophically under summer’s thermal expansion. The problem compounds: ice formation this winter creates stress fractures that weaken the barrel, making it more vulnerable next winter. By year three, you’re wondering “why did my barrel suddenly split?” when the damage was cumulative. This approach gambles a $100 barrel against a $500+ water damage claim when it fails and floods your foundation.
Inadequate Drainage Techniques
Draining through the spigot alone leaves 3-5 gallons trapped in the barrel’s bottom contours and around the spigot housing. This water freezes first, expanding upward and cracking the spigot mount—a repair that often totals the barrel. The overflow port, typically 6 inches below the top, leaves even more water behind. Complete drainage requires removing all fittings and physically tipping the barrel. For barrels with permanent stands, install a bottom drain plug during initial setup. This $3 fitting allows complete evacuation without moving the barrel, paying for itself the first winter.
Forgetting the Accessories and Connections
Your barrel itself is often the most robust component. The cheap plastic spigot, the vinyl overflow hose, the PVC diverter—these accessories fail first. Remove all hoses and store them indoors; vinyl becomes brittle and cracks at fittings when frozen. Disconnect metal screens, which can rust when condensation freezes on their surface. The first flush diverter, often containing small-diameter tubing, freezes solid within hours of the first frost, splitting the housing. Create a checklist of every component that touches water, and ensure each is either drained, removed, or protected.
Spring Commissioning Checklist
Winterization doesn’t end when temperatures rise. Spring commissioning—thoroughly inspecting and reactivating your system—prevents early-season failures and identifies issues while they’re still minor. Approach spring startup with the same methodical mindset you applied to winterization.
Inspection Points After Winter
Begin with a visual inspection of the barrel’s exterior, looking for new cracks, discoloration, or deformation. Check the stand for rust or wood rot where moisture accumulated. Examine the spigot threads with a magnifying glass—freeze damage often appears as hairline cracks that only leak under pressure. Test the overflow system by filling the barrel with a hose and verifying proper drainage. Inspect gutters and downspouts for winter storm damage before reconnecting the diverter. Document everything; photos help you track degradation over years and predict when replacement becomes necessary.
Recommissioning Steps
Reconnect components in sequence, testing each before adding the next. Start with the downspout diverter, running water through it and checking for leaks at all connections. Reinstall screens and filters, ensuring they’re properly seated. Fill the barrel to 25% capacity and let it sit for 24 hours, checking for slow leaks around fittings. Only after confirming watertight integrity should you allow the barrel to fill completely. This staged approach isolates problems; if a leak appears, you know it’s in the most recently activated component.
When to Replace vs. Repair
Small cracks in HDPE barrels can be repaired with plastic welding, but this is a temporary fix at best. If a crack has propagated more than 3 inches, or if you find multiple stress cracks, replacement is more cost-effective than repair. Metal barrels with seam separation cannot be reliably repaired; weld patches eventually fail due to thermal cycling. Wooden barrels with more than three loose staves or separated hoops should be professionally reconditioned or replaced. Consider the barrel’s age: a 10-year-old barrel that’s cracked has served its lifespan; repair merely postpones the inevitable next failure.
Long-Term Winterization Investment Strategies
Thinking beyond this winter, consider how system design affects future winterization efforts. A barrel that’s difficult to winterize is a barrel that won’t be properly maintained. Forward-thinking design choices can reduce seasonal labor by 80% while extending system life by a decade.
Designing Systems with Winter in Mind
Install your barrel on a hinged or pivoting stand that allows easy tipping for drainage. Use quick-disconnect fittings on all hoses and diverters—spending an extra $15 per fitting saves an hour of wrestling with stuck connections each season. Position your barrel within 10 feet of a power outlet if you might ever use active heating, even if you don’t plan to initially. Choose dark-colored barrels that absorb solar heat, providing passive protection during marginal freeze events. These design elements add minimal upfront cost but dramatically simplify winterization forever.
Modular vs. Permanent Installations
Permanent installations with buried plumbing and concrete pads look professional but complicate winterization. Modular systems using above-ground PVC connections and portable stands offer flexibility: you can reconfigure or remove components as needed. Consider a hybrid approach: permanent downspout connection with a quick-disconnect at the barrel inlet. This gives you the clean appearance of a permanent system with the serviceability of a modular one. The ability to easily isolate and remove components is worth more than aesthetic integration when January’s first freeze arrives.
Cost-Benefit Analysis of Winter-Ready Features
A winter-ready barrel system costs 20-30% more upfront but pays for itself in three years through reduced replacement costs and labor savings. Quick-disconnect fittings ($45 vs. $15 for standard fittings) save 30 minutes per connection annually. A bottom drain kit ($25) eliminates the need to tip the barrel, saving an hour and reducing injury risk. An insulated jacket ($180) extends barrel life from 5 years to 12+ years in cold climates. When budgeting your system, amortize these costs over the barrel’s extended lifespan; the math almost always favors winter-ready features.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will my rain barrel crack if I forget to drain it before one overnight freeze?
A single overnight freeze rarely cracks a full barrel if temperatures rise above freezing the next day and the barrel is in good condition. The danger comes from sustained freezing or repeated freeze-thaw cycles. However, even one freeze can initiate microcracks that propagate over time. If you forget to drain before a freeze, inspect the barrel thoroughly when it thaws and monitor it closely for leaks.
Can I use automotive antifreeze in my rain barrel for winter protection?
Never use automotive antifreeze (ethylene glycol) in rain barrels. It’s highly toxic to humans, pets, and wildlife, and it contaminates soil for years. If you need freeze protection for non-potable applications, use food-grade propylene glycol at a 1:10 ratio with water. For potable systems, only complete drainage or active heating are safe options.
How do I winterize a rain barrel that’s part of a gravity-fed irrigation system?
Gravity-fed systems require special attention because water trapped in distribution lines can back up into the barrel. Install shutoff valves at the barrel outlet and at each lateral line junction. Drain all lines by opening the lowest point and using compressed air to blow out remaining water. Remove and store any pressure regulators or filters indoors. The barrel itself can be winterized using any standard method, but the distribution network must be completely evacuated.
Is it better to store my barrel upside down or right-side up?
Store plastic and metal barrels upside down to prevent water accumulation and keep pests out. Place a small block under one edge to create a slight tilt, allowing any condensation to drain. Store wooden barrels right-side up with a damp towel inside to prevent stave shrinkage, but only if you’re storing them in a location that stays above freezing. The towel maintains moisture content in the wood, preserving the seal for spring.
What temperature should I set my barrel heater to?
Set thermostatically controlled barrel heaters to 35°F, not 32°F. This 3-degree buffer accounts for temperature sensor inaccuracy and ensures the entire water mass stays liquid, not just the area near the heater. Setting it higher wastes electricity and can create excessive condensation inside the barrel, promoting algae growth. Use a floating thermometer to verify actual water temperature matches your thermostat setting.
Can I just leave my rain barrel full and let it freeze solid?
While some industrial-grade polyethylene barrels can withstand freezing, most residential barrels will crack. Even if the barrel survives, the expanding ice will likely rupture the spigot, crack the overflow fitting, or damage connected hoses. The risk of barrel failure and subsequent water damage far outweighs any convenience. This approach also makes spring startup difficult, as you’ll wait weeks for 50+ gallons of ice to melt.
How do I protect my rain barrel pump during winter?
Remove submersible pumps completely and store them indoors in a bucket of water to prevent seals from drying out. For external pumps, drain all water from the housing and run the pump for 30 seconds to expel moisture from the impeller chamber. Store in a climate-controlled area. If removal isn’t possible, wrap the pump in insulation and install a thermostatically controlled heat tape on the pump body, setting it to 40°F to protect both the pump and any residual water.
What’s the frost line depth in my area, and why does it matter?
Frost line depth varies by location: typically 12-18 inches in zone 7, 24-36 inches in zone 6, and 36-60+ inches in zones 5 and below. Contact your local building department for the exact depth in your county. It matters because soil below this depth remains unfrozen year-round, making it ideal for burying pipes or entire barrels to prevent freezing. Installing components above the frost line is essentially leaving them exposed to freezing air temperatures.
Should I clean my rain barrel before winterizing?
Absolutely. Organic matter like leaves, pollen, and algae decomposes during winter, creating acidic compounds that etch plastic and corrode metal fittings. The decomposition process also consumes oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that produce hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg smell) and can damage the barrel’s interior. Clean your barrel with a mild bleach solution (1 tablespoon per gallon), rinse thoroughly, and allow it to dry completely before winterizing. This simple step extends barrel life by 2-3 years.
Can I use my rain barrel to store other liquids over winter?
Avoid storing anything but water or approved antifreeze solutions. Chemical residues can permeate polyethylene, leaching out in spring and contaminating collected rainwater. If you must store other liquids (like diluted fertilizer for spring use), use a dedicated, labeled barrel and never return it to rainwater collection service. The risk of chemical contamination is too high, and many compounds accelerate plastic degradation, causing premature barrel failure.